|
3 | 3 | ## Competition Mount |
4 | 4 | Below is documentation on the mount we use for comp. It will be updated regularly. Each item will have an overview explanation, then if it has any changes (such as having 3d-printed designs), then a design process log (development log) will be available below it. |
5 | 5 |
|
6 | | -### Lunchy |
7 | | - |
8 | | -#### Design Process Logs |
9 | | -*Documentation wasn't done on V1-V3* |
10 | | - |
11 | | -##### LunchyV4 |
12 | | -Lunchy 4 won't work as built, and new ideas need to be added at the beginning. |
13 | | -###### Why it won't work: |
14 | | -- It looks hella ugly. |
15 | | -- The vent should be split in 2 and moved to the sides. Hot air gathers more there, and for structural integrity 2 smaller ones are better. |
16 | | -- Dimensions are wrong for the camera as this year we are switching from the Zed 2 to the Zed 2i |
17 | | - |
18 | | -###### What needs to be added. |
19 | | -- Sponsor wall |
20 | | -- Change to z2i camera (and maybe make that mount a separate part). |
21 | | -- Considering making an internal ribbed part holder. |
22 | | - |
23 | | -##### LunchyV5 |
24 | | -###### Active fixes needed in V5: |
25 | | -- It looks hella ugly. |
26 | | -- The vent should be split in 2 and moved to the sides. Hot air gathers more there, and for structural integrity 2 smaller ones are better. |
27 | | -- Dimensions are wrong for the camera as this year we are switching from the Zed 2 to the Zed 2i |
28 | | - |
29 | | - |
30 | | -###### Goals for V5: |
31 | | -- Add sponsorship tile compatibility |
32 | | -- Add 1mm to each Lunchy dimenstion, then make the wall 3mm thick, finally cut back wall by 1mm on the smooth edges. |
33 | | -- Divide the wall out to add the 3mm holes for sponsor wall. |
34 | | -- Add a computer frame that can fit within lunchy - "Skips" |
35 | | -- Accommodate Z2i in Skips and Lunchy cutout |
36 | | - |
37 | | -###### Choices made in V5: |
38 | | -- Maximized creating fillets on any long straight corner - this reduces elephant footing and warping in the 3d printing process. |
39 | | -- I am concerned that the number of holes on each side might reduce the waterproofing, I know they will be covered with sponsors, but it is an extra point of failure. |
40 | | -- will create alternate Lunchy where each panel is one side of the case, then we can fuck with sponsors on that panel. Body stays the same each year, but panel gets reprinted. |
41 | | - |
42 | | - |
43 | | -*Now after Christmas trying to fix design, confident 5 would have printed, however I am unhappy with the sponsor tile solution.Want to try a picture frame solution so will create V6, hopefully reusing all same dimensions from V5 except wall thickness to 4mm (2mm back, 1mm plate, 1mm frame) to accommodate.* |
44 | | - |
45 | | -##### LunchyV6 |
46 | | -###### Main changes: |
47 | | -- potentially an O-ring design might work printed out of TPU or used just around where the openings are. Biggest question is where they will go. Perhaps best if they go around where the holes go and we use screws with fasteners to ensure a tight fit to Lunchy. |
48 | | -- I also want to explore adding the camera mount as an attachment to the base plate. |
49 | | - |
50 | | -###### Plan after reviewing logistics |
51 | | -- Having screws interface with the sponsor board |
52 | | -- Do a picture frame design, covered in the Lunchy MS Whiteboard. |
53 | | -- Focus on adding camera mount to base plate secondly as should be easier concept to incorporate into Lunchy (but separate thing to Lunchy). |
54 | | - |
55 | | -###### Still needed to change |
56 | | -- Need to add in wall positioning for modem casing to slot |
57 | | -- Need to add in screw holes for connecting base plate to lunchy body. |
58 | | - |
59 | | - |
60 | | -*(Note on naming of files - once I update a file from the previous model or remake it, the number changes to the current version. If the design ends up with 0 changes between version x and x+1, the name stays - product_x.)* |
61 | | - |
62 | | -##### LunchyV7 |
63 | | -###### Main idea: |
64 | | -- After printing and testing of spacing, current Lunchy design is too small. Everything fits, but there is no clearance for wiring. |
65 | | -- For cabling, we will add a tuxedo-style back to V7 so the wires can run out and down (matching how the top design looks. |
66 | | -- For sponsor plates, the bottom piece was too flimsy and potentially unnecessary. Will attempt a design without it while using friction to keep the pieces in. |
67 | | -- Screws to attach Lunchy to Basey and Basey to Base Plate will now extrude as they were too hard to access going in from side. This will also help with Lunchy design for ADS keeping it easier to install. |
68 | | -- We will develop a separate test-bench style holder for the parts to be printed in PETG so they can stay together with/without Lunchy support (including Modem) |
69 | | -- The front access for the LiDAR cable will now be in Basey |
70 | | - |
71 | | -###### Mid-Development log |
72 | | -- New naming scheme implemented :D. |
73 | | -- Tuxedo-style back added, decided that it doesn't need to go below where Lunchy already stops because we're simply protecting from water, not other elements. |
74 | | -- Removed extra cabling things. Yet to add new cabling for front to Basey. |
75 | | -- Left a small disconnect between tux and rest of box to allow compliant mechanism, I would fear random people operating it could snap, so gave it some built-in flex. |
76 | | -- Had to adjust Liddy to be 2mm longer because it was off in previous versions. |
77 | | -- Need to extend the flute (tuxedo) to be 2cm bigger, making it a 4cm extrusion, then will print and hopefully that's enough. |
78 | | - |
79 | | -*(Note, Basey is my new unofficial term for the Lunchy base plate, distinguishing it from the actual base plate Lunchy as a whole will be mounted on, naturally the lid will now be Liddy).* |
80 | | - |
81 | | -#### Modem |
82 | | -The modem had a custom housing designed for it as the original housing was too large. The antenni were snapped off to adhear to comp rules and for space, however original housing and antenni should still be in the AI storage closet. |
83 | | - |
84 | | -##### Modem 101 (for dummies) |
85 | | -###### Important Information: |
86 | | -Model: Archer C50 (EU) - Ver: 6.20 |
87 | | -Full name: Archer C50 AC1200 Dual Band Wi-Fi Router. |
88 | | -Power: 9V - 0.85A |
89 | | -Default Access: http://tplinkwifi.net |
90 | | -Wireless Password/Pin: 47142855 |
91 | | - |
92 | | -Link to product specs: https://www.tp-link.com/uk/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-c50/#specifications |
93 | | -Link to product manual: https://www.tp-link.com/uk/support/download/archer-c50/ (pdf available in directory with modem CAD files) |
94 | | -You can see a picture of the original UI lighting and info-card in the reference pictures saved alongside the CAD files. |
95 | | - |
96 | | -###### Lighting Meanings |
97 | | -(from left to right): |
98 | | - |
99 | | -**Power:** |
100 | | -<font color="green">On (solid)</font>: Router is powered on and running normally (if you came here to figure out what this means, I have no hope for you). |
101 | | -Off: No power (please make sure it is plugged in AND On button pressed, also it takes ~30s to fully turn on after starting, so wait before being sure it's dead). |
102 | | -<font color="DarkGreen">Slow Flashing</font>: System is starting up or firmware is updating. Do not disconnect or power off. |
103 | | -<font color="DarkGreen">Quick Flashing</font>: WPS connection in progress. |
104 | | - |
105 | | -**Wi-Fi (2.4 GHz):** |
106 | | -*Ignore this, considering we removed the antennas - however I wrote out what you need to know anyway.* |
107 | | -<font color="green">On</font>: The 2.4 GHz band is enabled. |
108 | | -Off: Use your brain. |
109 | | - |
110 | | -**Wi-Fi (5 GHz):** |
111 | | -*Ignore this, considering we removed the antennas - however I wrote out what you need to know anyway.* |
112 | | -<font color="green">On</font>: The 2.4 GHz band is enabled. |
113 | | -Off: Use your brain. |
114 | | - |
115 | | -**Ethernet/LAN:** |
116 | | -*Note: I (Conor) snapped this light on 24/01/2026. If you open the modem and the LED is straight up not there, that's on me - my bad* |
117 | | -<font color="green">On</font>: At least 1 Ethernet port is connected to a powered-on device. |
118 | | -Off: No Ethernet port connected (or detected). Cry. |
119 | | - |
120 | | -**Internet/WAN:** |
121 | | -<font color="green">Green On</font>: Internet Service is available. |
122 | | -<font color="orange">Orange On</font>: Internet Port is connected, but internet is not available. |
123 | | -Off: Router's internet port is not connected. |
124 | | - |
125 | | -*(4 LEDs should be green, the rightmost changes between green and orange so requires colour changing LED.)* |
126 | | - |
127 | | -###### Buttons: |
128 | | -WPS/Wi-Fi Button (to left of ethernet ports) |
129 | | -Power On/Off Button (to right of ethernet ports, beside plug) |
130 | | -Reset Button (need pin to poke, below WPS/Wi-Fi Button) |
131 | | - |
132 | | -###### Back Panel (I/O) |
133 | | -(mostly ripped from user manual): |
134 | | - |
135 | | -**Wi-Fi/WPS Button:** |
136 | | - Press this button for 1 second, and immediately press the WPS button on your device. |
137 | | - The Power LED of the router should change from flashing to solid on, indicating successful WPS connection. |
138 | | - Press and hold this button for about 5 seconds to turn on or off the wireless function of your router. |
139 | | - |
140 | | -**Reset Button:** |
141 | | -Press and hold this button for 2 seconds until all LEDs turn off to reset the router to its factory default settings. |
142 | | - |
143 | | -**WAN Port:** |
144 | | -For connecting to a DSL/Cable modem, or an Ethernet port. |
145 | | - |
146 | | -**LAN Ports (1/2/3/4):** |
147 | | -For connecting your PCs or other wired network devices to the router. |
148 | | - |
149 | | -###### Frequently Asked Questions: |
150 | | -**Q:** Does the modem work wirelessly? |
151 | | -**A:** No, per FSUK rules this expensive wireless modem does not work wirelessly. |
152 | | - |
153 | | -**Q:** Are you aware you could have gotten a much cheaper product considering you didn't even need 95% of what this does? |
154 | | -**A:** Yes, but we are just silly guys (non-gender specifically :D). |
155 | | - |
156 | | -**Q:** Is the 3d printed mini-case gigantically over-engineered? |
157 | | -**A:** Of course is it, anything Conor works on ends up way too complicated compared to the actual use case. |
158 | | - |
159 | | -**Q:** Why is the 4th LED missing? |
160 | | -**A:** Conor is an idiot and broke it but didn't have a soldering iron and extra LED handy. |
161 | | - |
162 | | -**Q:** Why do you need an FAQ for how to boot a modem that doesn't answer anything to do with the modem or how to use it? |
163 | | -**A:** Conor thought it was funny at the start and now regrets it because it's corny AF and he was just really bored D:. |
164 | | - |
165 | | -#### Design Process Log |
166 | | -Ignore the file "screw it" - it is for the screw bit on the modem casing top if it snaps off, but realistically just reprint it. |
167 | | -The STL files should match the SolidWorks files, same with the 3mf files - those are optimised for a Bambu A1. |
168 | | -The modem insides file is inaccurate. It is loosely right, but is particularly wrong around the I/O interface. |
169 | | - |
170 | | -You should be able to just directly print from the 3mf files and it should work, but you might have to sand around the I/O connectors (no clearance). |
171 | | - |
172 | | -#### Design Explanation |
173 | | -The 2 pins at the back on the inside are for holes on the modem. |
174 | | -The key-hole holes on the bottom are for mounting. |
175 | | -The raised main platform for screwing should align exactly with the board's cutout. |
176 | | -There are small ridges on the main body printout that align with the roof printout to make them align better. |
177 | | -The grates on the side are mostly aesthetic, but also save some filament and serve the cooling need letting air flow thorugh. |
178 | | -The 3mf files are printed in that orientation so the top side looks clean when printed, entirely aesthetic but no harm done anywhere. |
179 | | -You'll probably have to loctite the screw holder on the roof back together, then it will stay there solid - there's a weird point of failure. |
| 6 | +documentation system changed as of 01/02/2026, conor will add more stuff here at soem point, or else he will be fired. |
180 | 7 |
|
181 | 8 | ## Rigby (test car) |
182 | 9 | RIGBY GO VROOM *(TO BE ADDED LATER)* |
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