Welcome to the DIY Steam Machine Discussions! #4
Replies: 8 comments 2 replies
|
Building the NewGen3d Water cooled BC-250. Would milling a hole in the stock backplate and putting heatsinks directly attached to the VRAM chips be advantageous? If not could I get a link to the large and shallow heatsink I've seen in photos that covers the whole area? |
|
The BC-250 already has a built-in PWM controller for up to 7 fans. Maybe you could make a version that doesn't require the Commander Duo. It would make the wiring a bit more complicated, but it would be cheaper and leave more room in the case for cable management. |
|
Ill leave that up to someone else to adapt, but its certainly an option, maybe you can give it a shot and post results? I have way to many other things to do currently. You don't have to use the Commander DUO, its optional, you can use a small low cost powered fan hub or even a splitter cable, I wanted the hub, as it runs the front ARGB light, has those thermal sensors so I can monitor VRM and VRAM, this is a DIY rig, you can build it how ever you like :) Another thing I like about the hub, is I can connect to my machine via a web browser from any device on my network, and I can monitor, and adjust things dynamically, even while in a benchmark or playing a game, so you can control the cooling system from your phone, tablet, laptop what ever while a game is running, its a cool feature, but not 100% required. |
|
I just want to thank you for your effort - this repo is GOLD. |
Hi! I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this message, but here it goes... I'm new to the group, the world of 3D printing and Linux, and I have to say this project is fascinating. I first printed the V1 case with the single-fan setup. I was pretty skeptical that adding a second fan would actually make a difference, especially with so many people out there saying it wouldn't. In the end, I decided to at least give it a try and printed the dual-fan holder. I went from using a single ARCTIC P12 Pro PST to two of them, and the improvement was between 5 and 7°C lower. Before, my FurMark temperature would stabilize at around 84–85°C, and now it tops out at 78–79°C. On top of that, the fans don't have to spin at such high RPMs anymore, so the system is noticeably quieter. While open the top of the heatsink, I accidentally damaged a few of the cooling fins—lossing probably 4 or 5 of them—but it clearly didn't stop the cooling performance from improving. My BC-250 has 38 CUs unlocked, since enabling one particular pair of CUs causes the system to crash. Right now, I'm running a maximum GPU clock of 2000 MHz and a base CPU clock of 3500 MHz. Now that temperatures are lower, I'm planning to overclock the CPU and maybe squeeze a bit more performance out of the GPU by lowering the voltage and increasing the clock speed a little—maybe to 2100 or 2200 MHz. One of the improvements I want to make to my new case is this: I plan to use this adapter so that replacing the SSD will be much easier in the future. I'm thinking about mounting it somewhere behind the front panel, so I would only need to remove the front cover to access the SSD. @NexGen-3D-Printing this might be a nice feature to consider adding to future designs. Also, are there any plans to release updated versions of the Redux models? If so, I'll hold off on printing until the new versions are available. Regards... |
|
That's an awesome idea, I like it, and dead easy to implement, mounting the SSD behind the faceplate will be very easy, I don't think heat is going to be a big issue as the SSD hardly breaks a sweat in this machine anyway, but I could create a thin slit somewhere to allow some air from the main fans to escape passing some small amount of airflow over the NVME drive, let me know if the adaptor works, as the NVME to Sata multiport ones don't, well they do once your in the OS, but you can boot from them. I wonder if there is one that has a round cable instead of a ribbon? Would make it easier for routing. |
|
Also no plans for any major changes to the REDUX, I only want to employ additions to the outer cover plates, like this sort of thing, I may still release updated cases, but would only be very minor changes, just fix any issues that arise, more patching than major feature changing, so this version is very much complete, I do have a newer version right now to upload, and its just to improve on the 0.6mm nozzle printing ability and I have changed the rear text, here is the front and rear case, its almost identical to the current one, just some slight adjustments and a newer UISB cover |




Uh oh!
There was an error while loading. Please reload this page.
👋 Welcome!
I'm using Discussions as a place to provide help on building my DIY Steam Machine's.
build together 💪.
All reactions