Electronics

You will need some basic to intermediate soldering skills to complete the remote.

The first step is ordering all the parts required (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vXR9ce0m25Ap6XxzlymFo_pfpIeT2RAqWCypW-a-Jes/edit?usp=sharing) as well as the PCBs (https://easyeda.com/ervinelin/New_Project-35f7bf3537744cda8e1064904f6a78a5). I highly recommend getting the PCBs, they are dirt cheap and save you a TON of soldering work.

Once you have the PCBs, simply solder the respective components to the corresponding holes.

Some points to note:

1. I have removed the 220uF capacitor as it was giving me problems, for now I do without it.

2. The hall sensor wiring with the words facing up go from 5V, GND, OUT in that order from left to right.

3. All wiring points are labelled, so just connect the dots. Only Sw2 on the PCB is left empty and is meant to be a possible expansion for those who need a 3rd button.

4. The NRF module HAS TO BE SHIELDED WITH COPPER TAPE (exposing the antenna), don't ask me why but this can make the difference between connecting and not connecting. I wrap the module in blenderm tape then copper tape just in case the copper shorts the module.

5. The NRF module has a 1.27mm pin spacing, this is EXCRUCIATINGLY painful to solder and I have damaged one module due to poor soldering skills. I suggest getting the 1.27mm pins and letting the solder wick onto the pads carefully. I also suggest using a multimeter to test for shorts between the pins after soldering

6. The DC boost converter is soldered flat onto the PCB but the lipo charger is lifted off via pins. Use the wriggle room between pins and the lipo charger to align the USB port with the hole at the bottom of the casing.

7. Solder only the pins required for the Arduino Nano v3 and ensure that the inductor of the DC boost does not hit the pins of the Arduino.

8. The two halves of the transmitter are connected by soldering 2.54mm pins. I tried using pin headers but they make the stack too thick. I would advise you connect all the other wires to the bottom and top PCBs BEFORE soldering the two halves together. The completed PCB is held down by 4 x 2x10mm screws.

9. I solder the wires to the limit switches at an angle to facilitate in wire routing

10. I remove the pins from the OLED and solder 28/30 gauge wires directly to the pads, I also remove the little bit of double sided tape behind the OLED display and glue it directly to the PCB. Becareful when you do this, it can rip out the ribbon cable.

11. I solder wires directly to the 18350 lipo, you'll need an iron that can go up to 450deg for this as well as some quick hands to make sure you don't overheat the lipo. Additionally if you decided to use another kind of lipo, you might need to change the resistor on the lipo charger PCB (https://github.com/SolidGeek/nRF24-Esk8-Remote/wiki/2.-Electronics - see battery management).

12. The receiver is much simpler to put together. Again solder only the pins you need, solder the NRF module VERY CARFEULLY and make sure you shield it first. Again I leave out the 220uF cap but I use an external LC filter to clean the 5V from the VESC. Tx on the receiver goes to Rx on the VESC and vice versa. Instead of 3D printing a case, I just heat shrink the receiver.